Write to me at the end of the main page.
I sell these tools, because they are particularly useful for bicycle. You can't find the sizes and configurations from other suppliers of tools. Consider the combined spoke key - you won't find such anywhere. The wrenches 15-17mm, or 8-10mm are rare too. Most suppliers now provide wrenches with same ends, or the assortment of combinations does not include most of what you need.
Below I list a select set of hand tools, and sizes useful for bicycle. Most of those I have in stock.
Please consult the web site of manufacturer for other tools, and sizes. You may order any from me.
I have a few paper catalogues and CDs. Please ask.
I display prices for items on stock (those listed in a column, named "size"). For prices of other sizes please ask.
|Spoke wrench and rear cassette remover. 1669
Price: 4.64€ (16Lt)
|Handy on tours. A combined tool: for spokes and cassettes of rear cog wheels.
The cassette key stops against the frame. A plastic insert comes with the key. Use it to prevent damage to the frame (unless you lose the piece). You may also use the plastic as a an extended handle for fast winding.
Pull the chain by pedal to unscrew a cassette.
Turn the wheel backwards to tighten it.
Mind that while unscrewing, the fixing nut of the cassette may jam against the frame. So, both ends of an axle of the wheel may get tight in the frame as well. Hence, keep the axle loose. Do not tighten or fix it prior to operation. It needs some space for unscrewing.
While tightening the cassette back onto the wheel, avoid excess force. About 40Nm is enough. That is 27kgf*15cm on a key of average length... Or 12kgf*35cm on a 70cm wheel (35cm radius). I use far less force.
You may discover the force to use by experiment. The force is sufficient as long as the cassette does not come off.
The size of spoke key is 3.25, instead of 3.3. Thanks to this it fits onto nuts of spokes tightly. So, it grips them better, and makes less damage.
I have asked the manufacturer to improve the design of the spoke key. Yet it is quite good already.
|Spoke key professional. 1630
Price: 8.4€ (29Lt)
|Large handles. Large working area. Comfortable for intensive use - by a professional mechanic, or
at home. In the field, on a trip you are not likely to use the key intensively.
It is convenient to have a choice of tools: have one for field use (like 1669 above), and another for use at home (like 1630).
|Spoke key. 1630A
Price: 2.03€ (7Lt)
|Not a very comfortable key. It wobbles too much. It is also not very precise.
I took size 3.3, but it seems to be 3.35.
- Too loose for spoke nuts of 3.25, and too tight for 3.4.
I grinded it with a file, widened the hole to size 3.4mm. Very easy done. Metal is soft enough.
So, the key is usable at least for this size. It works, especially for folks, who like it cheap.
Others should prefer the key 1669 above.
I have asked the manufacturer to improve the design.
I do not use this key, because it performs poorly, as I described. I have another key. It looks very similar to this one. Yet it is far better. It is made locally by a local mechanic. The man has committed suicide. That was in year 2000, if I remember well. He was not a brilliant mechanic to say the least. But he was a very good man. His key remains the best ever.
|Open end wrench short. 1612A
Wrench of medium length. 110/2
Price: 2.32-4.06€ (8-14Lt), depending on size
|Short keys are by about 40mm shorter than medium ones (at size 14-15mm).
Short keys are available only in few sizes. Medium wrenches come in great variety.
The manufacturer claims the short key to be a "cone wrench". But it is too thick for a cone of a hub of a bicycle wheel. Regular wrenches are but slightly thicker than its bigger end, and slightly thinner than its smaller end. They do make thin wrenches, however (article 1612).
Wrench 15-17mm is especially useful, as such nuts are both present in a bike.
|8-9mm; 14-15mm (length: 152mm)
8-10mm; 10-14mm (length: 172mm); 15-17mmOther sizes
|Combination wrench, short. 125/2
Price: 2.9-5.21€ (10-18Lt), depending on size
|Open and ring ends in one key. The name "combination" does not mean that sizes of ends are different. Both ends are the same size. This key is too heavy for a tour. But it may serve well at home, where you do most repairs of a bicycle. The ring applies less stress on a nut - less chance of damage.||8, 9, 10, 15, 17mm.|
|Crank puller. 1661
Price: 13.32€ (46Lt)
|One end has a key of tube type (left end on the photo). It can reach sunken bolts and nuts of 14mm.
Another end (right) has a crank extractor. You screw it on a thread into a crank.
Then screw a plunger (protrudes from right end on the photo) to push against the axle, and pull the crank off.
A separate insert comes with the tool (lower photo on the right end). It looks like a tiny hat. It is designed to plug into the hollow shaft of a Shimano "Octalink" bottom bracket. Then you pull a crank the usual way.
You do not pull or fasten cranks often. But when you do, a crank puller is indispensible.
|14mm||Carbon Steel. Hardened and tempered.||black|
|Chain tool. 1647
Price: 17.37€ (60Lt)
Other chain tools. Some are of similar type, like vice, some like pliers. Some cheaper:
|Sturdy. Maybe this tool is too bulky, or too expensive to take on a tour.
Yet it works well at a workshop, or at home.
On the other hand, convenience may be preferable even on tours.
Type of operation: screw. Push out or in a pin of a bicycle chain. The use is obvious: Open (disconnect), or close (connect) the chain, when swapping an old one. Add, or remove links, to repair damage.
The tip of the tool pushes a pin in a chain. It may wear out. The tip is a long, thin rod. They confusingly call it a
pintoo. You can replace it with a spare.
A cap with a hole, and thread holds it. The cap does not tighten the tip. The tip is loose. It rotates, and slightly wobbles on the shaft. It may stay put, not rub against a pin of a chain, as you rotate the shaft by handle. Perhaps this makes it wear out less, as a pin of chain may be harder than the tip of tool.
I asked manufacturer to improve design, and to provide less bulky tools. As a result, you see new chain tools below. They did not implement all my suggestions yet.
|Flat screwdriver CR. 605CR
Price: 4.06€ (14Lt)
|I like bolts with plain sockets. For ordinary flat screw drivers.
If the head of a bolt is damaged, or sometimes clogged, you can always restore it with simple tools.
If you don't have a screw driver, you can always use anything else.
At the same force a flat screw driver makes less damage to a bolt.
You can't be that flexible with bolts with hex or cross sockets.
However, bicycles tend to have bolts with hex sockets nowadays. So, screw drivers with fixed, or exchangeable tips of different types are available as well.
I chose the big and long driver for home use, where size, and weight does not matter. The handle is big, so, it allows more force, which does matter.
|8 × 1.2 × 175mm - sufficiently wide for flat M5 bolts.
|chrome - vanadium - molybdenum steel. Chrome plated, burnished tip. Handle: soft plastic. Has a hole for hanging.||black|
|Stubby flat screwdriver TBI. 627TBI
Price: 3.19€ (11Lt)
|Same comments about flat screw drivers as above.
I chose the small and short driver for restricted spaces, and travel, where size, and weight matter a lot. The handle is smaller, so, it does not allow a lot of force. But it is a compromise. I chose length of 35mm. Shorter drivers, 25mm long, are available. Length of 25mm you may choose from cheaper drivers with black handle - article 627CR. Length 35 exists only in blue.
|6.5 × 1.2 × 35mm - sufficiently wide for flat M5 bolts.
|Adjustable wrench. 250
Price: 26.07€ (90Lt)
|Has a scale to measure the gap. The scale is not precise.
The error is within 0.5mm. The jaws wobble a little, and the gap is slightly not straight - wider at base, narrower at tips.
No wonder - made in Taiwan. (Other tools are made in Slovenia.) But the wrench does its job.
Useful for big nuts of various sizes, which you drive rarely, and don't want to have a separate key for each. Also for fixing various home appliances, which are notorious for differing sizes. Examples: Some keys for rear cassette have a head of 24mm. Some keys for bottom brackets have a head of 32mm.
I chose size 34 from a PDF catalogue (300mm long). But it turned out that catalogue in PDF differs from Web. So size 34 is actually 38mm... Yet the actual size is 40mm. The last mark on the scale is at 39mm.
You may use this wrench also to bend, or to straighten a bent part made of a sheet of metal.
Examples: disk brake, derailleur holder.
Other nominal sizes (in brackets - the measured sizes): 17, 23, 28, 32, 38 (40), 50, 60, 70mm.
|Vernier. Caliper. 271
Price: 23.17€ (80Lt)
|Has 3 feelers for outer, inner width, depth, and height (step size).
The feeler for depth and height protrudes from the right side, when you move the slider.
On the photo you can't see it, because it is retracted within the body of the tool on the back side.
Two scales: centimeters, and inches.
Useful for measuring of elongation of chain. It indicates the chain wear.
You would measure length per 10 links.
It is better to have this all-round tool, than a specialized
indicator of wear of a bicycle chain. Specialized tools cost too much,
do little. And, as I mention in the link just above, what they do is a mistake.
Made in China. (Other tools are made in Slovenia.)
|Range: 0...151mm; maximum 160.8mm, if partial reading suffices. 0...6.075"; maximum 6.332".
The web erroneously states:
|Hardened stainless steel|